Introduction
A choli is blouse or bodies like upper garment in commonly cut short leaving midriff bare, it worn along with saree in Indian subcontinent. Choli is also part of ghagra choli consumed in Indian subcontinent. In north gujrat specially palanpur particularity it known as Banaskantha or polhu word is used.
History
Do you know that lehenga was worn 2300 year ago during maurya period. In 1500 bce to 500 bce. Lehenga choli originated at ancient times in form of three piece attire uttarya draped on head and shoulder, stanpatta worn in chest, and antaria below the waist.the antaria worn in three different variations such as small simple langot or dhoti or as lungi or skirt. Or to secure with ornaments like cummarbandh, further during maurya era the antaria worn one side of dress after stitching crudely which give a vulgar look which called as bhairnivasni. In maurya empire in jain and Buddhist philosophy decency was ranked very important. Owing these philosophy, jain and Buddhist monks began wearing bhairnivasni which further evolved in ghagri.
The first ever sculpture with lehenga appears in gupta period in 320ce to 550ce. And in 1600 AD-1700AD (16th and 17th century) in pictorial depictions and mythological stories of Rajput the dupatta shown as highly transparent garments which perhaps made with velvet.in these pictures a forth white garment is seen attached with lehenga which know as patka. Which perhaps used to join between the two ends of lehenga, or to control spread of lehenga.the style of wearing patka with lehenga was popular till early 19th century.
Mughal era (1526- 1761)
In the beginning of mughal era,lahenga made of fabrics such as expensive silk and brocade. Even in end of mughal era ladies mostly wore floral,umbrella style lehenga. since mughal hold was strong in northern India, that’s why it was more popular in northern India. The facts prove that fashion was influenced the royal family and nobility. In those time , the most expensive fabrics wore by upper class women, and lower class women lehenga made of cotton and khadi.
Pre independence era( 1857-1947)
The popularity of lehenga was faded when Indian women preferred saree more, almost became uniform of freedom fighters lehenga was limited upto rular area women.
Lehenga in 90’s era
Indian fashion designer began representing lehenga in new style through movies as result which lehenga were yet received by Indian women,after watching the movie stars wearing grand lehenga’s in film. Indian women silently drifted from saree’s and made lehenga as their first choice. In every state of India, has adopted lehenga’s as their own fabrics, design and embroidery.
Types and variety
Rajasthan is popular for fabrics like laheria and bandhani along with gotta patti work, kundan and zardosi embroidery.
Gujrat and kutch has mastered in embroidery of sheesha and khanabadosh.gujrati ghagra has plates and gathers around waist. And patchwork embroidery is the specialty of gujrat.
Haryana– the women of jatt community use to wear shirt, ghagra and odhni or dupatta, haryanavi women use to work outdoor in feild,thus these dress provide them comfort,these whole attire know as thel.
Punjab, specially lacha and knee length blouse,Punjab expertise in phulkari,chicken kari and nakasi in dupatta and lacha is twist of lehenga and sharara.
South india
Specially half sarees wore by girls who reached early years of adolescence it called as langa voni in telugu, Pattu davani in Tamil, and langa davni in kannada
Maharashtrian tradition
Traditionally girls use to wear parkar polha before marriage and swich to nawari saree after marriage .
Lehenga choli is a attire whose effect can be seen the ethenic attire of all over India, based on place and culture it’s form keep changes, what does have not changed is women’s love for it.
[…] In Mughal era payjama was introduced in solid colors was in trend in those period and influenced other patterns such as churidar,shalwar,dhilja,gharara and farshi all class of people rajput to mughal darbari use to carry kurta payjama similar pattern. were royal prince use to carry achkan with chudidar payjama were nizami princes use to carry cotty with sleeve-less kurti. […]